With really super flavour, the gurnard is a versatile choice, excellent in hearty staples like fish and chips or homemade family favourites like fish fingers. Its meaty and firm-but-flaky texture works well in fish stews and fiery seafood curries. Try it in a traditional Provençal bouillabaisse, alongside monkfish, red mullet and John Dory. Make a rich, well-reduced sauce with onions, celery, fish stock and plenty of chopped and puréed tomatoes. Flavour it with saffron, star anise and a good splash of Pernod, before poaching the fish in it. Serve garnished with garlicky croutons and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.